Thursday, March 31, 2011

April's Here

Well almost.

In terms of heat and humidity, nothing compares to April in Bombay, except February in Mombasa. I love the month of April in this city. The labernums are in bloom, the days are longer, the kids go on vacation and of course the Ratnagiri mangoes are here!  Of course, I have 2 exams to dodge before I can really relax and then there are a few work-related commitments.

I am still very optimistic about the two wonderful summer months ahead of me in my wonderful city.

March Madness in the sub-continent

No matter how much one didn't want to be a part of the cricket, it was impossible to be in India and ignore the ridiculous hype that preceded the India vs Pakistan Cricket World Cup semi final. The media hijacked the event with unprecedented hype but the show was stolen by Manmohan Singh, who initiated his cricket diplomacy.

All I can say, is that it is JUST A GAME. Too much national pride is attached to something as stupid as a game of cricket. There was so much of hate being spewed on Facebook and other sites. I am glad that the Twitter brigade kept it civilized. I would have been more than happy to congratulate my twitter friends from across the Radcliffe Line if Pakistan won. They were classy enough to pass on the "props" when India won.

Indians and Pakistanis need to seriously concentrate on nation-building instead of wasting time, money and energy on this sport.

Monday, March 28, 2011

Study Mode

At a time when all people in this city seem to care about cricket, I have 2 exams to deal with. Italian on April 3 and French on April 10.

I believe it's way more important to understand and communicate in a language than to be perfect in grammar and know wich accent goes where. Having said that, I want to reward my wonderful and hard working professors with good grades in both exams.

I am just a month away from the Himalayas!

Monday, March 21, 2011

India Calling: An "Intimate" Portrait of a Nation's Remaking

Most of us in India have them: annoying NRI (Non-Resident Indian) cousins who come once a year to India to Lord over the unfortunate souls who still live in this poor and desperate country. They come once a year to this country not to pay respects to their grandparents or meet loved ones but to feel good about their lives, to reassure themselves that they are living well and are happy.

In years gone by, famillies would eagerly anticipate the arrival of the NRIs but now that India is confident and middle class incomes have risen, NRIs don't get the privileges they once had.

Anand Giridharadas is one such NRI (or rather a Person of Indian Origin harping on about his American passport), who longs for the India of the past. A country where he would be treated as someone special because he lived in America and moreover because he is an American citizen. The rise of India and the upward mobility in this country has shocked him and made him wonder how these non-Anglicized natives have adapted to capitalism and managed to live so well. So he picks on Indian values and Hinduism and spares no attempt to malign them as much as possible.

Growing up in suburban Cleveland and suburban DC, he looks down on Indians who use their influence to get their nephews jobs and those that jump queues. It's okay for a Hindu to do that as it's part of the religion, according to the author, who romanticises the Anglophile and Christian values of Nehru and Gandhi.  Of course, the author chooses to ignore the fact the role that "contacts,"  "influence" and "godfathers" play in every society.

What is even more nauseating about the book is how the author canonizes his parents, who were probably the first couple in India to ever fall in love. His family was different from the uncultured desis who settled in America. His family had a real global outlook and ate global cuisines unlike the fresh off the boat Indians who longed for all things Indian.  In fact, the self-righteous preaching is spread out across the book. His grandparents were westernized Anglophiles and the children of his parents' friends are part of the South Bombay elite. He rues the fact that rustic "vernies" have made it and are assertively speaking in Hindi and other languages.

I won't deny that the book is well-written and features some nice stories and interviews, among those, one with Mukesh Ambani. But the book is a poisonous and judgemental look at India through the NRI who no longer has a kingdom and inferior people that he can lord over. Judging by the response to his book, he has managed to parasite a good amount of money by slamming India and Hinduism. No doubt a large number of his readers are members of the Indian diaspora who feel so insecure that their adopted countries face economic hardships whereas India is on the rise.

I rest my case with this passage from the book. "The Indian vision of love was, to my untrained eyes, a series of absences. It was the absence of visible affection, the absence of romantic speech, the absence of sexuality in movies and on television.... But in India it was especially difficult, for one had to imagine a universe of sentiments that seemed scarcely to exist in the physical world." Yup. Indians are incapable of love because they don't have sex in public!


Sunday, March 20, 2011

Images from Rural Bihar

I travelled to Kalyanpur, a village near Dalsingsarai, in Bihar. The Gangetic Plain is as lush, green and fertile as it's made out to be. This particular village looks prosperous, there's a school, the crop yields are high and the farmers have cell phones.


But of course, there is no reliable power supply and electricity is available for about 2 hours a day. Farmers are finding it difficult because their children want to migrate to the city and man aging farmers are unsure about what to do with their land.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7444188@N05/sets/72157626313228632/ 

India: A Portrait. An Intimate Biography of 1.2 Billion people

It's easy to react to the latest book written about India by a foreigner with scepticism. More so the case, when we are talking about a man who famously called Mahatma Gandhi a "wily" politician and glorified Jinnah in his book about India's partition. But in all fairness to Patrick French, I have to say that his "India: A Portrait. An Intimate Biography of 1.2 Billion people" is one of the most readable and balanced books written about India at this point of time.

The title may be a bit misleading as the biographies are few and far between except in the final chapter but the book is well-researched and the author has travelled across several parts of India to give a very macro picture of the Indian psyche. French bravely treads the path of caste and religion with a neutral outsider's view but I think he can't hide his excessive admiration for Iyers and other Tamil Brahmins. He tends to fawn over them.

His look at the so-called Young Turks has probably annoyed the living daylights out of people like Sachin Pilot, who I met a week ago. In fact, the hard-hitting analyses on our princes is one of the best parts of the book. I would recommend this book to both those that want to know more about India and Indians, who want a fairly balanced look at our country from an outsider.

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Hell in Mumbai

When people talk about the worst areas of India, they bring up names like Bihar, Uttar Pradesh and Orissa but after yesterday I can safely say that nothing on earth compares to the hell hole called Dharavi. Over a million and a half people are crammed into living conditions that would be deemed unfit for animal inhabitation in any country.

The people who live in Dharavi recycle most of the city's cardboard, plastic and glass waste. This is just about enough to feed themselves and put children in an English-medium school but the filth and squalor can make anyone sick.

It's understandable that people are completely against getting photographed and filmed. There are enough creeps indulging in poverty porn a la Slumdog Millionaire, who profit from the misery of Dharavi's masses.

What I saw disturbed me in a way that very few things actually could. Seeing babies crawling on garbage heaps, children fighting over territorial rights and the general air of misery. The Indian Government has failed its own people in more ways that can be counted.

Before I finish this rant, I have to mention something that disturbed me the most. A so-called social activist was being interviewed by a foreign journalist. He was talking about human rights and dignity and all the usual non-sense that he didn't believe in. How would I know? Just 30 feet away, two men in their 20s were harassing an 8 or 9 year-old boy. They dangled the child over a bridge overlooking a water pipeline, threw his slippers into the garbage and then stripped him and then pocketed a few coins from his shirt. All this in full view of this lawyer and human-rights activist.

I told a policeman on the bridge about the incident and he told me in Marathi to just do my sightseeing and go back to my comfortable home.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Why last Wednesday's Magadh Express was cancelled

Special thanks to Suyash for sending me this wonderful pic. If only I could pass this on to the station-master of the New Delhi Railway station.



Life and Death on Bihar's highways

Riding the highway north from Patna can be a fatal experience. We saw some remnants of vehicles on the Mahatma Gandhi Setu, the giant entry bridge into Patna. This was just an indication of what was to come on our ride to Kalyanpur, a village 160 kilometres away. Somewhere near Dalsinghsarai, there was a 3-kilometre long traffic jam. When we finally managed to penetrate that jam, we saw two trucks that rammed into each other. There was no chance in hell that the people in the front seat of both trucks would have survived after that accident.

There is unnecessary stress in places like Dalsinghsarai, where endless honking is a way of life. Biharis don't seem to fear for their own lives. Bicyclists and bikers walk through railway crossings despite the vibrations, sounds and sights of incoming trains.  My heart was in my mouth when I saw a bicyclist gently stroll past the tracks as a train zoomed in. He survived by 3 seconds!

Riding back to Patna at night was even more of an adventure. We had an excellent driver who saved us from getting rammed by a truck that was desperate to overtake a bus at any cost. There was also a Formula-1 type race between a motorcycle and a tractor. The man in the bike was riding with a woman. My theory is that they were eloping and heading as far north as possible. A little less presence of mind from our driver and the couple would have enjoyed their honeymoon in heaven.

When we were back in Patna city, I wanted to bow down and touch the ground. We weren't just further statistics on Bihar's highways!


Sunday, March 13, 2011

Patna Diary

When you keep your expectations as low as I did, it is very difficult to be disappointed. I was pleasantly surprised what I saw in Patna. We stayed in the "posh" Exhibition Road of the city and you could be fooled to think that you are in any boom town in India. There's a Dominos Pizza filled to the brim, an HSBC, Standard Chartered Bank and all sorts of multinational brands.

The city is now considered safe after dark and every local is proud of the improved law and order situation. Biharis love Nitish Kumar and he was given an unbelievably large mandate in the recent elections. For the capital city of the poorest state in India, there was one glaring contradiction: No beggars on the streets.

To be really fair, I found Patna to be a much more livable and cleaner city than say Guwahati in Assam. The locals are friendly, there is a great level of optimism and people believe that Bihar's time has come. "Our growth-rate is catching up with China," a successful entrepreneur told me. Alright, I don't want to be mean but seriously. If my GDP is 10 dollars and grows to 11 dollars, I can hardly indulge in chest-banging and claim that my economy will be greater than the dragon's


Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Magadh Express Cancelled

I guess a reality check was due at sometime. Three days of meetings in the corridors of power in Delhi. Three days of seeing the very best India had to offer. Three days of wonderful and insigthful encounters and drives through the most tree-lined and well-maintained neighbourhoods in the country. And then it ends with this: At 8:00 pm at the New Delhi Railway station, around a thousand passengers are told that the Magadh Express to Bihar has been cancelled.

The station-master gives no reason and tells me that this is India, so tough luck! The Delhi to Bihar sector is one of the most used ones in the Indian Railways but a train can be cancelled for no apparent reason. "Tell the Angrez that this happens here," said a man in the station-master's office who probably sees this kind of drama regularly.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Sarkari Bhavan

It's 4 pm on an absolutely gorgeous spring day in New Delhi. The setting is the reception of a sarkari bhavan or government house.  People wait for a special pass to enter the building that houses a high-profile ministry. Security is super tight and the trigger-happy CPRF is manning the building.

Some people walk in and bump others off the queue. The receptionist gives the aggresive queue-bumpers a dirty look but is forced to issue them a pass. In the same office, an irate Punjabi woman tries to convince a clerk that there is no such thing as a ration card in Australia.

We get our elusive passes to enter the building and then the CPRF stops us and tells us that we can't take our cameras inside. Back to the reception: The lady asks for someone to come down with a letter authorising us to enter with the cameras. Of course that person doesn't turn up.

As we wait outside, the firm but polite CPRF officer starts getting uneasy and criticises the ministry's clerks. Finally the minister's media officer comes in her not-so-VIP car and talks to the officer, who says he can't let us in: Rules are Rules! We reach a compromise and are let in on the condition that the gun-totting CRPF man following us into the building is sent back with the letter.

Inside the building, there is an army of clerks (probably all getting overpaid thanks to the 6th Pay Commission). We enter an office of a bureaucrat, well lit, insulated and full of lovely art work. The official is oblivious to the world surrounding him. A "peon" with the traditional hat dating back from colonial times brings him evening tea.

Minutes later, we meet the minister, who gives us a good interview with all sorts of talks on reforms. I guess it's a lot easier to reform from the outside in. Mera Bharat Mahan!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

No passport, no hotel

No, I am not back in Russia or the former USSR. This is Paharganj, a tourist ghetto near the New Delhi Railway Station.

Delhi is in love with bureaucracy in a way that would make the Soviet Union proud. In a pre-booked room, where I paid with credit card, I was told at midnight that I needed a passport or some other proof of residence to check in. A PAN card, a Government of India-issued Income Tax Card wasn't enough! Finally we reached a compromise when they "generously" agreed to accept my visiting card!

As far as experiences go, this is the first of this kind for me in India. Later on, I was told that is a new anti-terrorism procedure prescribed by the police. Now I really feel safe!!

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

An Austrian in Devanahalli

Gunter from Graz had been in India for a whole 2 months and didn't have a single encounter with a stray dog. His upmarket suburban Bombay locality didn't have the menace and he was pleasantly surprised to see that Bangalore took care of its problem. That was until his final hour in the information technology hub of India.

It was a windy and pleasant evening in Devanahalli, outside the airport, but Gunter was exhausted and starved. After all, the Bangalore trip was tiring and full of meetings. He hadn't even managed to grab a bite for breakfast or lunch that day.

With the flight being a few hours away, Gunther decided to indulge in a large kaati role. It was at that moment when the last stray dog of Devanahalli made an appearance. The mutt was ugly, skinny and deprived of its hair. The diseased creature was knocking on hell's door but the smell of the role drew the drooling mutt towards Gunter. However unlike Jhandelwalan, which had its share of stones, the area outside the airport was clean and bereft of missiles. Gunter's appetite reduced as he saw the saliva dripping from the mouth of the disease-infested mutt.

He had to do something to chase away the mutt. So in a flash, he grabbed his bag containing the tripod and flung it almost like a javelin towards the dog with a loud grunt. The frightened mutt ran for cover evading a couple of Meru taxis and staying alive for another few hours. It was when Gunter bought a sandwich at Subway to assuage his hunger that the mutt returned but all it had to do was see the rage in the Gunter's eyes to realise that its own hunger wasn't worth a pounding from the big black bag.

Two days later, the mutt died and Devanahalli lost the last of its stray dogs.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

The rise of Young India in Bangalore

From what I have seen in the so-called Silicon Valley of India, there is an increasing number of young people with an entrepreneurial spirit and great ideas. I met a 24-year old CEO of a company that provides web solutions to small and medium size companies in Europe and North America. He started at the age of 14 from a cyber cafe and is now on the World Bank's advisory board as well as a regular on the World Economic Forum circuit.

The same day, I met the co-founder of Flipkart. This is a young man, who was educated in IIT Delhi and instead of running off to America, moved down to Bangalore and set up a company that is essentially India's own Amazon.com. Books on Flipkart are sold at a discount that retailers can't match and with 10 million titles in stock, it would be tough to not find a book there.

I also met people who are actively involved in tele-medicine and the use of technology that ensures that the rural population has access to the best of doctors. Others involved in making sure that cell phones have perfect Indian language settings and enable us, Indians, to learn each other's languages.

The "ecosystem" in Bangalore is conducive to entrepreneurship and new ideas. The city is full of angel investors and the Karnataka government helps those with ideas. This is a sea of change from the days when the city was nothing but the world's back office. Start-ups in the city employ many enthusiastic youth who don't just want to slave for a big multi-national until retirement age.

The change is happening and is being driven by technocrats.

Images from Egmore

These pictures were taken at the crack of dawn in the Egmore Area of Chennai.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7444188@N05/sets/72157626028719511/