Railway Diaries: Rich Marwaris and Policemen

I seemed to be the only non-Marwari in the entire compartment of the train to Udaipur. Amidst Marwari-bonding in the train, there was a candid sharing of stories among members of this community known for their business accumen.

A gold merchant spoke about how his employees, who take local trains in Bombay get stopped by cops around Marine Lines and Grant Road station. They first demand that the employees open their large bags so that they can be inspected. Then the police demand proof that the gold and jewellery aren't stolen. Of course, the harassment goes on till the employee parts away with some cash. The more experienced the employee, the less he pays the policeman.

So, basically these merchants are a cash cow for the police and some businessmen have a provision for  bribery. I have been taking local trains for years but have never been witness to these kinds of things. But I guess, living in a banana republic, I shouldn't be suprised with these stories.

This particular gold merchant said that it was impossible to get tickets on the Bombay-Ahmedabad Duranto Express because, the train runs non-stop from Bombay Central to Ahmedabad City. This makes it safer for those in the jewellery business to transport their valuables.

No passport, no hotel

No, I am not back in Russia or the former USSR. This is Paharganj, a tourist ghetto near the New Delhi Railway Station.

Delhi is in love with bureaucracy in a way that would make the Soviet Union proud. In a pre-booked room, where I paid with credit card, I was told at midnight that I needed a passport or some other proof of residence to check in. A PAN card, a Government of India-issued Income Tax Card wasn't enough! Finally we reached a compromise when they "generously" agreed to accept my visiting card!

As far as experiences go, this is the first of this kind for me in India. Later on, I was told that is a new anti-terrorism procedure prescribed by the police. Now I really feel safe!!